There is truth behind this buzzy term, but it’s more nuanced than you might think. Plus, there are a few ways to tweak your routine to minimize the initial reaction as much as possible. Here’s everything you need to know, from experts. So retinol is not simply causing your skin to break out point-blank but rather expediting the process. Think of it like this: You have some breakouts on queue when you start using your retinol serum. Maybe they would come to the surface in a week, two weeks, a month, etc. Now, they’re just popping up at a faster pace. This is a common experience, especially for those who have acne, but it even occurs if you’re not typically prone to breakouts. “It tends to occur to a greater degree if you have acne because there may be more oil and more blockages within the pores to begin with,” board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., once told mbg. “If you do not have acne at baseline, there still may be microscopic blockages within the pores allowing for buildup of mild levels of oil,” he continues. That being said, it’s important to note that this is common and expected for retinol but not so much for other products. If you just started using a new hydrating serum or moisturizer, your skin shouldn’t be breaking out excessively. In that case, the product may simply be irritating your skin or clogging your pores. Further, timing can help you decipher if it’s a breakout or purge. If it happened within the first few weeks of starting your new retinol, that’s an indication your skin is purging. But if you’ve been using the same retinol for more than eight weeks, your breakout is likely caused by something else. “Once the purging is done, the skin should remain clear,” Zeichner previously said. Finally, the area may help inform you: Any breakouts on the skin surface not touched by retinol (think the hairline, scalp, back, etc.) won’t be due to retinol use. On the other hand, oily areas (like a T-zone) will be more prone to purging, since it’s more likely that there will be clogged pores. “In general, it’s a great idea to switch to all gentle sensitive skin products while adjusting to a new retinol,” celebrity aesthetician Joshua Ross tells mbg. If you want to exfoliate the skin, opt for a gentle AHA, and never use it on the same night as your retinol. You’ll want to schedule some evenings without exfoliants or retinol to make sure your skin has time to fully recover. This process of working through different products on different evenings is often referred to as “skin cycling,” and we’re all for it—especially for adjusting to new products. “For example, you can switch from a foaming cleanser to creamy cleanser. From an exfoliating toner to a hydrating one. Skip the vitamin C serum and switch to a hyaluronic acid serum,” Ross says. Post-purge, your skin will be ready for new products to be introduced, but it’s best to keep it simple and give your retinol a moment to live as the main star in your routine. It’s important to make sure your final moisturizer isn’t occlusive either. This means no slugging—petrolatum-based products and botanical oils included. Occluding products increase their efficacy, and you don’t want to supercharge your retinol like you may a hyaluronic acid serum or moisturizer. If you want to get a facial during your adjustment to retinol, great. Just be sure to tell your facialist that you’re trying out a new retinol product to ensure they have the knowledge to put together a safe and beneficial plan for your treatment.
