Without them, my strands just balloon up at the first sign of humidity—or, worse, are weighed down with actives that don’t allow for a little spring. Well, because even if they are great at solving some problems—they may create a host of other issues if you’re not careful. Allow us to explain. When silicones are formulated in hair care, the molecules coat each strand, creating a thin layer that repels water, fills in gaps in the strand, and smooths down the cuticle. For example, when the humidity hits, the water in the air cannot penetrate the strand, which is what causes frizz. And this layer can also help the hair hold in moisture (it’s why you’ll see them in leave-in conditioners). And, finally, because they smooth down the cuticle, they provide a shiny slip to the hair (it’s why they are in shine-enhancers or non-natural oils). Sounds pretty great, no? “They aren’t actually helping the health of your hair—they are just coating the strands so they feel healthier,” says Ron McLaughlin, vice president of research and development at Living Proof, a clean hair care brand that helped pioneer and usher in the wave of silicone-free products. “The obvious drawback of all this is that you end up with hair that can frizz and gets weighed down or greasy-feeling, so you are more likely to shampoo and style more often. This perpetuates what we call the cycle of damage. The more you wash and style, the more damaged your hair is, so the more you will feel like you need to reach for a silicone to get that soft feeling again. It’s a vicious cycle.” This is especially true if you see the word “dimethicone” on the label. This is an oil-soluble silicone, which means it can’t simply be washed off with water. And, when the buildup is severe enough, it will then need to be washed off with a clarifying shampoo (these are basically heavy-duty shampoos that blast open the cuticle and can only be used every-so-often because if used regularly, they will strip the strand of its nutrients). And as we currently live in the age of less is more when it comes to washing, there’s a good chance that if you’re using multiple silicone-filled products, you might have some buildup. “Over time, hair products can deposit on the scalp leading to skin irritation and inflammation. You may experience dryness, itching, and flakes as a result,” board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., says of buildup. Milk: Anti-Frizz Leave-In Nourishing Treatment, Reverie ($42) Moroccan Sea Salt Spray, OGX ($5.99) Farewell Frizz Rosehip, Argan & Coconut Oil Blend, Briogeo ($30) Perfect Hair Day (phd) Body Builder, Living Proof ($15.88) I Create Hold, Innersense ($26) Wax Poetic Texturizing Spray, Together Beauty ($28) Curl Defining Styling Souffle, Curl Smith ($12) Knot Today Conditioner, Kinky Curly ($15.39) Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Max Hold Gel, Shea Moisture ($6.89) Higher Hold Vegan Collagen Hairspray, Pacifica ($7.97) Black Vanilla Moisture and Shine Hair Sheen, Carol’s Daughter ($11.99) Fragrance Free Soft Shine Grooming Cream, Kristin Ess ($12)
